a/c tuneup tips
Spring and summer are busy times for HVAC maintenance visits. A tune-up can keep your system running smoothly and help you avoid breakdowns when it’s hottest outside. But here’s the thing: not every add-on your tech suggests is necessary.
As someone who’s been in the field for years, I’ve seen how some companies use these PM (preventive maintenance) visits to pad the bill with upsells. The result? Homeowners paying for things they might not actually need.
Here’s how to protect yourself during these visits—while still making sure your system is ready for summer.
What a PM Visit Should Include
A proper spring/summer PM typically involves:
✅ Checking refrigerant levels
✅ Cleaning coils
✅ Inspecting electrical connections and components
✅ Testing system performance
✅ Making sure the condensate drain is clear
It’s a solid, straightforward checkup. But too often, the tech might start suggesting extras—some helpful, some… not so much.
Common Repairs
There are a couple of normal wear items in an A/C unit. Specifically the Capacitor and the Contactor. There will need to be replaced periodically as they wear out.
Capacitors - These are electrical components that we use with alternating current (AC) voltage. Capacitors store an electrical charge and release it to keep things running during the cycle that AC naturally goes through. Long story short, if they fail. The Compressor or Fan or Both will not run. For modern Air Conditioners we use what are known as dual run capacitors. One side runs the compressor and the other side runs the fan. Capacitors are measured in microfarads, and are usually presented like this: 35/5, 40/5, 45/5. The larger number is the compressor side and the smaller number is the fan side. Manufacturers will suggest replacement if the tested capacitor value is 6% out of tolerance. That’s a technical way of saying that if your is rated for 35 and its testing at 32, its due to be replaced.
If a capacitor fails the unit will not start up, and that’s a service call. So, if a replacement is suggested, its not a bad idea to do it.
Contactors - Its a simple device that takes the signal from the thermostat and turns on the A/C unit. They do this by energizing a coil that pulls in a set of points that connects the high voltage from the circuit breaker to power the fan and compressor. The points are made of metal, and at they get older they start to develop pits. These pits create gaps that can allow of electrical arcing. If the tech says that the points are pitted, its not a bad idea to replace the contactor. If it fails, either the points will break and the A/C wont turn on, Or the points will fuse together and the A/C wont shut off.
Red Flags to Watch For
Watch out if you hear buzzwords like:
🔴 “Upgrade” – sometimes it’s just a fancy way to sell you something you don’t need right now.
🔴 “Protection” – it sounds important, but ask what you’re really protecting against.
🔴 “Extended lifespan” – sure, but if your system is already in good shape, you might not need it.
🔴 “Peace of mind” – always a feel-good phrase, but it can be code for “this isn’t urgent.”
Here’s how to tell if you’re getting real advice or a sales pitch:
👉 If the tech can’t show you readings (like microfarad values on a capacitor), be cautious.
👉 If they push you to buy right now without a clear explanation, slow down.
👉 If they’re vague about what’s “bad” or why it matters, get a second opinion.
Upgrades or Add ons?
The most common sales add on that you may be presented to you are things like Hard Start Kits, Solid State or Enclosed Contactors.
A hard start is a device that increases starting torque to the compressor, usually used when a compressor is starting to fail or seized up. Modern compressors don’t need them and they should only be installed when there are problems that need to be addressed. Things like power issues when the compressor starts. Think if all the lights in the house dim when the A/C kicks on, then its a good idea. Otherwise its a waste of money.
Solid state and enclosed contactors use a circuit board to connect the high voltages. They again, are not really needed on most systems. They can prevent bugs like earwigs from climbing in an blocking the contactor points but don’t consider them money saving or necessary devices.
Tune ups are great to catch issues early and maintain your system, but if you feel pressure by a tech to spend a couple hundred on a upgrade kit, just pass.
Problems with Allgeries
Spring is here, bringing pollen and allergens along with it. Let’s have a quick chat about indoor air quality.
Most people this time of year reach for those expensive allergen filters and think that’ll do. And they’re partially right. Those filters do a great job… at restricting airflow.
There’s a simpler and more effective way to handle allergens like pollen, dust, mold, and pet dander:
A UV light.
UV lights are installed on the return duct, away from the filter, and plug into a standard electrical outlet. It’s a DIY job that takes about 15 minutes to complete.
If you can drill a hole and run a couple of screws, you’ve got everything you need to get the job done.
Quick Install Guide: Plug-In UV Light for Your HVAC System
What You’ll Need:
A plug-in in-duct UV light kit (see links below)
A drill with a hole saw (usually 1.5" to 2")
A screwdriver
Safety glasses
Work gloves (sheet metal edges are sharp and unforgiving)
A nearby power outlet
Step 1: Pick a Spot
Look for a clean section of your return duct, ideally close to your furnace or air handler. Make sure there’s room inside the duct for the bulb, and that you’ve got an outlet nearby.
Step 2: Drill the Hole
Most kits come with a template—use it. Drill your hole carefully and avoid hitting internal components.
Pro tip: Sheet metal gets hot when you drill it. Gloves will save your hands (and your mood).
Step 3: Mount the Light
Insert the bulb through the hole and secure the mounting plate with the screws provided. Some kits include a gasket; if not, HVAC tape helps seal it tight.
Step 4: Plug It In
Plug the unit into a nearby outlet and look for the indicator light (a small glow or power light). That’s it—your UV light is officially protecting your air.
Maintenance is Easy:
Just change the bulb according to the manufacturer’s instructions—usually once a year. No filters to clean. No complicated parts.
Important: Never look directly at the UV bulb. It’s not normal light—it can damage your eyes.
Where to Buy
You don’t need a top-shelf unit—just a solid plug-in model that fits your duct and works reliably. Here are a few popular options:
Home Depot – VEVOR HVAC Air Purifier
Dual-bulb system with an easy plug-in design. Great for medium to large homes.
Amazon – BioShieldUV® Whole House Plug-In UV Light
Simple and effective. Mounts easily to your duct and plugs right in.
Lowe’s – Honeywell UV Purifier
Trusted brand with solid performance for standard HVAC setups.
These are not affiliate links. I don’t make a dime if you click. If you find another UV light that works better for your setup—go for it. The goal here is clean air, not brand loyalty.
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